Gaston Acurio famously said that there is no such thing as the perfect ceviche: rather, there are many different ones, because of the incredible variety of the Peruvian gastronomy. From Tumbes to Tacna in the coastline, from the Andean tradition to the Amazonian influence, along with the gastronomic culture of migrant communities, Peru was able to incorporate all those elements in surprising harmony. On the shoulders of true celebrity chefs such as Rafael Osterling, Pedro Schiaffino or Gaston Acurio himself, Peruvian vibrant food culture is now exported and recognisable worldwide. The Portuguese capital is, obviously, not immune to this trend and, recently, with Kiko Martins’ ‘Cevicheria’, Valeria Olivari’s alfajores at ‘Las Cholas’, the franchise ‘Segundo Muelle’ and even José Avillez’ upcoming project with Diego Muñoz (among several other restaurants with a non-exclusive but strong influence in the menus), Peruvian cuisine is slowly getting a place of its own in Lisbon’s gastro-scene.
Way before all this, however, Gabriela Ruiz, with her thematic dinners and, later, with the opening of Qosqo in 2012, was a true pioneer. The place is rather unassuming and, in a time when the hipster, trendy, modern restaurant design abounds, the vinyl-covered wall with a giant picture of Machu Picchu is intriguingly unfashionable. But it actually fits the restaurant and the food it serves. No pretentious flair, no cosmopolitan hype: just true, traditional, identifiable, pure, striking flavours. The ceviche is, of course, a star. Incorporating an incredibly fresh and firm Portuguese grouper, all the remaining ingredients transport me immediately to a memorable long trip to Lima a few years ago: the starchy choclo, the sweet camote, the crisp freshness of onions, the punchy aji peppers. In a progression of spiciness, the ceviche with aji amarillo and the ceviche with aji limo are both extraordinary. But there is more beyond the ceviche: the fried yuquitas (cassava) with a superlative Huancaína sauce, the chicken chicharrón, and the fried mixed seafood platter - all excellent. As far as the desserts go, the alfajores (sweet or spicy, the latter with a delicious spicy aftertaste) alone are worthy of a visit. The pisco sour is, not surprisingly, beyond reproach. The service is swift and well disposed, while Gabriela, more restrained, continuously manages the whole room with precision. The Zomato Gold program worked perfectly. And what is best, Qosqo’s menu has yet much more to explore.
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